Originally written on Friday, 2. June 2006, 11:56:06

So, I’m back in Tripoli and will be for a little while to come.

So has anything changed here in the last five months since I have been away. Well, actually, it has. As from 1 July, the Americans will no longer be seeing Libya as a terrorist state and as such, the trade embargo will be lifted for the import of American and other goods.

Is there a possibility that things may change ? Well, as with anything political, then yes, there is a chance, however, some of the reasons behind it make it unlikely and some of the tangible changes that have already taken place suggest that things will go ahead.

At present, and probably for a long while to come, Libya has the one thing the Americans need. Oil. Libya has vast, vast, quantities of untapped oil. The European and Arab oil producers are already here and have been for a little while, and are happily drilling away with the Libyans to get this oil out.

The Americans have not been able to get at this oil directly, because, as with most things in Libya, the national oil company is, essentially, state owned, and for the Americans to get at this oil they need to work the Libyan Gov’.

But they need the oil. So, the Americans have capitulated, and the embargo will be lifted. From a practical point of view this will mean a few things.

There will be more foreigners in Libya, like myself, here, working for the Libyan Gov’ either directly or indirectly. These foreign oil workers will be mostly based out of Tripoli, in the oil fields to the south. But to support them there will be changes in the services available.

One tangible example is the banking system. Libya has now, for the first time in, well, a long long time, got some ATM’s. Visa machines in this instance. There are only half a dozen or so in the country. Two in the airport, one visa and one mastercard in a big supermarket, [the supermarket is one enormous souhk, and has everything from fruit, veg, chocolate, the usual domestic stuff, electrical equipment [ I bough a blender for around £8.00] clothing, sim free mobile phones and lots and lots shiny silver tea services] and one or two in various office buildings.

This is a big step forward for Libya, as it means they are now hooked up to the international money systems, and the money exchanges are now allowing the few Libyan banks here to access their services. Heady days indeed.

So, what else may change ?

Tourism ? Well, Libya is a great place for tourists except for two things, as far as the tourists themselves are concerned. Libya is a dry country. In all senses of the word. But from the tourist perspective, if is DRY dry. No alcohol. None at all. And you need a visa to get here.

Now, on the first issue, there are rumours, only rumours, that alcohol may be permitted in some of the international hotels, only to foreigners who produce a passport. There are a few international hotels here, not many, so that may work. But will it happen? Frankly I don’t know. Libya is bordered on the west by Tunisia, another Muslim country, but which has a thriving tourist industry and does allow alcohol. Egypt is to the east. So Libya is a dry state in the middle. Not that this would influence anyone here. But you never know.

Visas are the other issue for getting into Libya. That will probably not change too much, and frankly, as with most things, if the price is right and there weather good, and you can have a beer by the pool, the tourists will follow soon on.

Is this a good thing though for Libya ? Well, actually, I am not convinced. I like Libya. It has a long and deep history, with lots of other cultures paying visits here over the past few thousand years : The Arabs [remember, this is an African country but is often thought of being middle eastern] the Italians, [the Romans sent a delegation long time ago both here and indeed all along the north African coast, looking for that perfect beach hut location,] as well and the modern day Italians, the British have been here [Libya was a protectorate of Britain after the second world war] and of course, more recently, our American cousins.

Libya has a much more relaxed feel to it than the tourist hot spots of Tunisia and Egypt. Comparatively speaking , Libya makes no money from tourism especially compared with Tunisia and Egypt. There is no haggling in shops, but equally, there is no pressure from the same shop owners to buy, as there is elsewhere, as there is just far less reliance on tourists.

There are fantastic excavations going on here. Leptis Magna is a World Heritage site. What would that be like if the amount of tourist went from hundred per year to , well hundred of thousands per year..

As it stands right now, I am happy for Libya to remain as it is, tourist free. I can still get Cadburys Dairy Milk / Whole Nut [my favourite] the Libyan home produced fruit and veg is excellent, the bread is wonderful, the cakes, oh, they are amazing, [very fattening, but so so so good]. I can now get a little cash from the ATM’s rather than having to take a wallet full of cash, so that is one good thing. As for the rest. We’ll see.

Ciao.